Emmy: Thoughts on Russia From a Cold War Kid

When I was in sixth grade, my class was shown a filmstrip about Soviet Russia. Those of you in your 30’s and 40’s remember that filmstrips were a great distraction from real academics in elementary school, as your teacher had to perfectly time the beginning of the film strip with the beginning of the tape deck. This usually took a good 10 minutes, giving you ample time whisper and giggle with your friends. The filmstrip on Russia stuck with me because it scared me to my core. I remember one particular political cartoon showing Russia as a mammoth eagle dressed in military garb with Poland represented as a small, weak bird tethered to its leg, dreaming of flying away. My teacher, Mrs. Fedler, said that the United States would never be the power it once was and that it was certain that Russia would win the Cold War based on their military might and their resources. I remember fearing that ubiquitous, dark force that was going to rule the world. Of course, the fact that we drilled regularly on what to do in case of a nuclear missile attack from the Soviets didn’t help matters. And I know that my Mom and Dad had to practice the same drills; get under your desk if the alarm sounds, stay there until your teacher tells you it is safe to come out and if you are exposed to radiation by all means wash your hands!

And now, I am in shock and awe that I stood in Red Square in the heart of Moscow for the second day in a row today, moving freely and unencumbered, with the exception of soldiers making us get off the grass. They have the “No Sitting on the Grass” rule in Parisian parks as well, only they pay some angry French guy to sit in a booth and periodically emerge to shout at you to move. Both methods are effective, to be sure.

The sites we have seen of Moscow and Red Square have been amazing - my favorite being St. Basil’s Cathedral. You all have probably seen images of this church with its multi-colored onion domes, sitting at the far end of Red Square. The exterior of this church has such a joyousness you can’t stop looking at it. One thing you don’t usually see in pictures is that the exterior doorways and entryways are trimmed with orange mosaic tile and painted scroll-work. I have never seen a church trimmed with such a bright color. If I heard correctly the church was used for storage during Communist rule and while restored and open for tourists like us to explore, is not a working church. In spite of that, there is a spirit of praise to the Lord there – what a beautiful light in what can be a hard and monochromatic world. I had a wonderful surprise when I looked up into one of the onion domes. The full face of God was looking back at me! I have seen icons or full body images of Christ in domes before, but this was unique as it was just his full face shining back down on us as we looked up. Mom, you would have cried!

My second favorite sight so far is Lenin’s Tomb. The body itself is a little gross, but how they have it set up is interesting. You go into a small, geometrical modern building off of Red Square that is almost totally dark inside. The pathway to the body turns twice and there is one solider against the wall at each turn standing perfectly still with a dim light shining on him. You are not sure if he is a painting or a person at first until you are almost directly in front of him, at which point he gestures mechanically with one arm which direction to go. We all agreed that was a little spooky, but cool.

The Russian people have been wonderful to us. While appearing stoic on the outside, they are a delight when you engage with them. It doesn’t hurt that they love children and we are hauling around two of the cutest kids out there! Everyone has been helpful and patient with us as we take care of everyday business of buying food and getting around.

Every morning when I wake up I still think about what a miracle it is that I am here, in a troubled but free Russia. One day, I hope that I will walk the streets of Baghdad and Kabul, freely and unencumbered thinking, "remember when we were at war…."

Emmy